Condensation trapped between your window panes, draughts around tired frames and glass that mists up every morning can leave your home cold, damp and uncomfortable.
We replace failing units with modern, energy-efficient double glazing, fitted by FENSA-registered installers, backed by a free home survey and a 10-year guarantee.
Our local glaziers in Manchester advise on frame material, glass type and ventilation, helping you reduce heating bills, cut outside noise and improve security.
You’ll choose from made-to-measure uPVC, aluminium or timber windows, with the right U-values and glazing options to suit each room and elevation.
We handle everything from measuring and survey to tidy installation and certification, so you can feel the difference from day one.
Read on for practical guidance on styles, specifications, installation steps and typical costs in plain English.
Takeaways
- Correctly matching flat or pitched roof units maximises daylight, reduces draughts and avoids expensive weather‑ingress repairs later.
- Using a FENSA‑registered, fully insured installer safeguards compliance, improves resale value and secures proper certification for your home.
- Specifying accurate U‑values and g‑values can cut winter heat loss and summer overheating, lowering year‑round energy bills.
- Choosing manufacturer‑tested flashings and seals reduces leak risk, protects roof structure and helps maintain long‑term warranty cover.
- Obtaining a written roof survey and post‑installation hose test catches issues early, preventing future water damage and disruption.
Quick Decision Guide: Which Skylight Suits Your Roof, Budget and Goals
Start by checking your roof. A flat or low-slope roof usually needs a raised timber curb and a fixed unit with proper factory-made flashings. A pitched tiled or slated roof can take deck-mounted rooflights with purpose-made flashings to suit your tile profile and roof pitch.
Decide your main aim before you price anything up: extra daylight, better ventilation, or improved energy performance. For light levels, think about room size and how you use it, then plan skylight size and position so you get an even spread without glare on screens or directly over a bed.
On insulation, compare the glass and frame figures, not just the brochure headline. A good modern unit will typically be:
- A-rated glass in a 28mm sealed unit
- Argon-filled with a low-E coating
- Warm-edge spacer bar to cut down condensation at the edges
Ask for U-values and solar heat gain (g-value) that suit your room and aspect. South-facing in Brighton, for example, benefits from lower g-value glass to keep summer heat down.
Check load and fixing details against your existing rafters or joists. The curb height, fixing brackets and flashing kit all need to match your roof build-up, tile type and felt/batten line, or you’ll end up with leaks and draughts. Always use manufacturer flashings rather than site-made lead where possible.
For opening units, compare:
- Trickle vents for background airflow
- Clear ventilation area (useful in kitchens and bathrooms)
- Multi-point locking and internally beaded sashes for security
Insist on tested weather seals – Q-LON or equivalent gaskets that won’t flatten after a couple of winters. A FENSA-registered glazier should check structural suitability, advise on condensation control, and confirm compliance with current Building Regulations, then issue your FENSA certificate number on completion.
Skylight Types Compared: VELUX, Flat‑Roof and Roof Lantern
Once you’ve checked the roof pitch, insulation and ventilation, it’s usually a choice between three main styles: pitched-roof roof windows, flat-roof units and roof lanterns. You’re balancing daylight, U-values, solar control and maintenance against what the roof can carry and what the £ budget will take.
Pitched roof windows on tiles or slates are a good all‑rounder. A decent unit with a 28mm argon‑filled, low‑E double-glazed sealed unit will hit A‑rated performance and keep draughts down with proper Q‑LON gaskets. Factory-made flashing kits matched to your tile or slate profile stop wind‑driven rain getting underneath, and you can go fixed or opening for extra ventilation over kitchens, loft rooms and bathrooms.
Flat‑roof skylights and domes suit felt, single‑ply and GRP roofs. You can have clear or diffused glazing in either toughened glass or polycarbonate; glass gives better U‑values and noise reduction, polycarbonate keeps the price down. Detailing is critical: we build the upstand to the right height and fall so water clears properly and doesn’t pond around the frame.
Roof lanterns are made-to-measure glazed assemblies, usually sitting on a new or existing flat roof. They use multi-chamber aluminium or PVCu frames with 28mm argon‑filled, low‑E units, warm-edge spacers and optional solar control coatings to keep summer heat down in places like conservatories and kitchen extensions. Because of the larger openings, we check the supporting structure, specify multi‑point locking to the opening sashes and keep everything internally beaded for security and easier glass replacement.
On any of these options we look at:
- U‑value of the glazed unit and frame
- Solar control or tinted glass to limit overheating
- Acoustic performance where there’s traffic or flight noise
- Cleaning access and self‑cleaning glass options
- Trickle vents or opening sashes for controlled ventilation
All work is signed off with a FENSA certificate number on completion, so the installation meets current Building Regulations in your area, including here in Manchester.
Hiring Local Skylight Fitters: Permits, Roof Checks and Watertight Installs
Local skylight work is still a glazing job that goes straight through your roof, so you want someone who can prove they know what they’re doing. Check they’re FENSA‑registered or can issue a recognised building‑control certificate, and ask for the FENSA certificate number on completion. Ask to see recent photos of A‑rated rooflight installs, details of the 24–28mm argon‑filled, low‑E units they’ve fitted, and proof of public liability and employers’ insurance that actually covers roof work in your area around Manchester.
A decent fitter will carry out a written roof survey before giving a firm price. That should cover rafter positions, load paths, insulation levels round the opening, ventilation provision, and how the flashing will tie into your existing tiles or slates. They should also confirm any upstand requirements, explain if building control needs to be notified, and give you a realistic permit or inspection timescale.
On the job, they should be using manufacturer‑specific flashing kits, proper vapour barriers and compatible sealants, not whatever’s left in the van. All trims and liners should be made-to-measure, internally beaded where possible, with decent gaskets (Q‑LON or equivalent) to keep draughts and water out. Ask how they’ll check for leaks – a proper fitter will have a set routine for watertight testing before they sign off.
Get guarantees in writing. That means a clear warranty on the sealed units against misting, a workmanship guarantee on waterproofing and finishing, and all certificates kept together for future resale or any compliance checks.
Costs & Timeline: Typical Prices, Project Stages and Common Install Mistakes
If you’re planning new double glazing or replacing failed units, cost and timing will depend on access, frame condition and whether we’re just swapping glass or doing full frame replacements with new insulated trims and plaster reveals. A straight swap of like‑for‑like A‑rated 28mm argon‑filled units into sound uPVC frames is usually done in a day on an average semi; full frame replacements with trims, making good and FENSA sign‑off can run over several days and push costs higher.
You’ll be budgeting for A‑rated glass units, frames, labour and any extra kit like access towers or trickle vents to meet current Part L and F regs. Lead times go up if we’re ordering made‑to‑measure aluminium or odd‑shaped frames, or if the factory is running a long batch on special colours.
Typical stages on a full replacement job in Leeds look like this:
- Measure‑up and survey, check lintels, sills, fire escape sizes and existing cavities.
- Order made‑to‑measure frames with 28mm argon‑filled low‑E units, warm‑edge spacer and Q‑LON gasket.
- Strip out old frames, make good brickwork and pack/level new frames.
- Fix, foam and seal, fit internally beaded units, trims and silicone inside and out.
- Set up multi‑point locking, toe‑and‑heel openers, then final check and issue FENSA certificate number.
On pricing, simple glass unit swaps start lower; full uPVC window replacements with A‑rated glazing, multi‑point locks and secure handles cost more per opening; aluminium or made‑to‑measure shapes sit at the higher end again due to hardware and fabrication. Larger openings, bay windows and French doors take longer to fit and need more labour and consumables.
Common mistakes on double glazing jobs are poor survey work, guessing sizes, not checking for steel or concrete lintels, and rushing the sealant so you end up with draughts and water tracking into the plaster. Another one is under‑allowing time for FENSA inspections or council checks on jobs that also involve widening openings, which can stall completion and add cost.
Keep It Leak‑Free: Post‑Install Checks and Straightforward Maintenance
Having the right A-rated, argon-filled 28mm units and frames in is only half the job. To keep everything watertight and performing as it should, the seals, drainage and hardware need checking properly after installation.
Once the frames are sealed in and the silicone has skinned over, carry out a controlled hose test on the outside. Check internal and external cill flashings, make sure trickle vents are clear and confirm the drainage and weep holes are running free, not blocked with render, mastic or packers.
Go over all fasteners on hinges, keeps and handles with the correct torque setting, and confirm multi-point locking gear is engaging smoothly all round. Check sashes are square in the frame, sightlines are even and beads are fully clipped in on internally beaded units.
On every annual service, record the condition of the frames, glass and seals. Look closely at Q-LON or EPDM gaskets for compression set, cracking or gaps at the corners; changing a tired gasket early is cheaper than chasing damp patches later.
Keep cills and upstands clear of leaves and grit so water can discharge as designed, and check secondary sealant lines haven’t pulled away from brickwork. Keep a simple maintenance log for each opening with dates, photos and any adjustments.
If you see ongoing misting, staining or swollen plaster reveals around a window or door in Leeds, bring in a qualified glazier or FENSA-registered fitter to check for membrane or flashing failure. Don’t just smear on more sealant for £5 a tube and hope for the best – it hides the problem instead of fixing it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can Skylights Be Fitted on Flat Timber or Metal Garage Roofs?
Yes, you can fit skylights on flat timber or metal garage roofs, as long as the structure is sound. We’d reinforce the opening with timber, use the correct upstand and flashing kit for your roofing type, and seal everything properly to avoid leaks. Always follow the skylight manufacturer’s instructions and local regs, and use an experienced fitter.
Do Skylights Affect Home Insurance Premiums or Require Policy Updates?
Yes, skylights can affect your premium and you should tell your insurer before or straight after installation. They’ll want to know it’s been fitted by a qualified installer, with proper flashing and toughened or laminated glazing, otherwise leaks or breakages might not be covered, and you could have issues if you ever need to make a claim.
Can I Install Skylights Myself With Basic DIY Experience?
Yes, you can fit some skylights yourself with decent DIY skills, but it’s not a simple job. You’re cutting into the roof, so you’ll need proper tools, safe access, fall protection and to follow the manufacturer’s flashing and waterproofing details to the letter. If you hit rafters, electrics or lead work, I’d get a qualified fitter in to avoid leaks and insurance problems.
Are There Energy-Efficiency Ratings for Skylights to Compare?
Yes, they’re rated much like windows, so you can compare them properly. Look at the U‑value, solar heat gain (g‑value) and visible light transmission; an A‑rated, low‑E, argon‑filled double‑glazed skylight will usually perform best. Energy Star and similar labels, plus the manufacturer’s certified test data, make it easy to compare one unit against another.
Do Skylights Cause Overheating in Summer Without Blinds?
Yes, they can make the room quite warm in summer if you’ve no blinds or shading. Use a low solar‑gain glass (low SHGC, A‑rated if possible), maybe a 28mm argon‑filled unit, and consider external blinds or reflective film. Opening or vented skylights help let the hot air out and keep things more comfortable.